new tank
As far as the fishless cycling, if you were starting up a new tank and were planning on getting all new fish for the new tank, then fishless cycling the new tank and using some of your old tank’s filter media would be a good idea but since you are simply upgrading the fish from the smaller tank to the bigger tank, you can simply transfer as much of the current ecosystem and biology from the old tank to the new tank so the new tank starts off with an almost identical ecosystem as the old tank.. which is why I call it cloning..
Since the AC-70 has a decent sized reservoir, you could leave the charcoal out (since it’s not needed as a permanent filter media anyhow) and take the filter media (floss pad/sponge/etc.) from the Whisper and fold it up and put it into the media holder of the AC-70. You want the sponge block on the bottom then the “old” media, then the biomax (stones) media as the top/last level of filtration. The AC brand uses a series of channels so that the intake water is channeled down to the bottom of the reservoir and then flows up through the filter media before pouring out the waterfall… so you want the biomax as the top/last layer so only filtered water is flowing over it so it does not get clogged up with detritus since it will be a big part of the nitrifying bacteria colony in that filter system.
If you are using a tap water dechlor, there’s no need to let the water stand for 24 hours before using it for a PWC… as long as you can reasonable control the temperature of the tap water so that it’s close to your tank water temp, you can refill it directly from the tap after siphoning out the old water during a PWC. This is how the Python Water Change System works.
In all likelihood, the 0.5ppm level of ammonia in the new tank is from the residual ammonia left over after treating tap water that is disinfected with chloramine (chlorine and ammonia compound). The tap water dechlor breaks the chloramine bond and the chlorine is broken down and the ammonia remains.. Usually, that low level of ammonia is immediately utilized by the nitrifying bacteria in an established tank with no problems since a 25% PWC would only introduce 0.125ppm of ammonia… a very low level that usually won’t even show up on an ammonia test kit.
She was right about the plants utilizing this ammonia also but just running your established filter on the new tank for a couple of minutes would also have eaten up that level of ammonia… presuming it was only the 0.5ppm residual level from chloramines. Without having actual numbers, it’s difficult to be certain so I’m just relying on my experience in many other similar situations.
No, the dip strips are NOT recommended. They are not very accurate or they are inconsistent so you are never sure of their results. The API or Tetratest-Laborette Master Test Kits are both inexpensive (under $20.00) and accurate and are available via Walmart.com with free delivery to a local Walmart store… if you have one nearby. If you don’t, then the API kit is readily available online from many sites and DrsFosterSmith.com had the best price the last time I compared prices but then there would be a shipping charge.
Be VERY careful about getting any advice or buying anything from that store that referred to “the pneumonias”. Check with us out here before wasting your time or money with them. It’s OK to use them for free water testing right now but you really need to get your own Master Test Kit. Relying on them for testing seems like an accident waiting to happen. I would get the Master Test Kit before getting the alert monitors. After your tank is set up, if you have extra money and want to get the Ammonia and pH alerts, they are a convenience but really, once the new tank is set up as I instructed and you test the water using the Master Test Kit (or utilize the pet stores free testing daily), you will see that things will likely be OK. I am currently using one of the SeaChem pH alert monitors in my goldfish tank, more as a comparison test to the Mardel pH monitor that I was using since I got it for free…. and the pH monitor is OK to use in an established tank to be sure your weekly maintenance schedule is sufficient to maintain the pH in a tank with a heavy bioload.. like goldfish tanks.
Give us the details on all products that they have sold you so far.
Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com (Links to articles referenced above listed on the right side under Archives - Year, Month and under Labels)
Category: Philippines Internet Koi Society
