CB, Raven and Lucille
Unless you are teetering on the edge of having enough oxygen in the tank to support the fish, which, from the video’s I saw you are not, there is nothing to worry about. Yes, live plants will take in O2 at night and release CO2 in turn, it is not normally enough to upset the balance. If you test pH in the morning and in the evening in a planted tank, you will notice a lower pH in the AM and a higher pH in the PM. This is because the increase in CO2 overnight will lower the pH via carbonic acid, which will be utilized by the plants during the daytime, which will cause the pH to rise.
This is why it is wise to do any testing of your water at approximately the same time each day.
\Steve//
> —–Original Message—– > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of > Menagerie_Manager > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 6:11 PM > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille > > What about reddish brown or a bit of yellow? There’s also green. > > I’ve been pretty much letting the growth do what it wants on the back > and side walls. I remove it from the decorations when it becomes unsightly > and usually then I will soak them in hot water for 10 to 15 minutes to kill > it off. > > My timeshare daughter (dd’s bff from HS) was concerned that too much > algae would use up the O2. Any chance of that? > > DebR and the Three Goldfish > (CB, Lucille, and Raven) > > > —– Original Message —– > From: “Steve Szabo” > To: > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 3:31 PM > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille > > > I skipped over DebR’s question earlier this morning (what the heck am I > doing getting up at 4 AM when I can sleep late?). Algae is a primitive > plant, probably the most primitive we are likely to see up close and > personal. It is often the first plant to grow in aquaria, even if we > have added live plants to the tank during set up, as these will suffer > what is known as transplant shock, and will take a period of time before > they actually start growing again. > > All tanks will have algae in them, though it may not be readily > apparent, even in well planted tanks. In truth, algae is pretty much > impossible to remove from this environment, the best we can hope for is > to control its growth. Those who follow the “take no prisoners” method, > attempting to remove all algae are doomed to failure, and may actually > do more damage during the war than is warranted. A minimal growth of > algae, whether it is apparent or not, is a good sign of a healthy tank. > How much to allow is really an individual choice, though of the > thousands of species of algae, there are some we really do not wish to > see in our tanks. Hair algae is one, the misnamed blue-green algae is > another, though it is not really an algae, but a bacteria > (cyanobacteria) a step or two removed from being a plant, brush > algae–similar to hair algae, and colors other than green algae. > > The main problem with the above, except the blue-green, is that they are > unsightly–the blue-green often indicates an unbalance in your tank that > needs to be fixed. > > There are many fish we keep that require vegetable matter in their diet, > though they may not be complete herbivores (fancy way of saying > vegetarian). One of the problems, though, is picking the correct fish to > help you control the type of algae that you have. Most algae eaters will > eat only algae of a certain type, some will only eat certain species of > algae. While they may do well for a period of time, if, at least, the > right type of algae is not provided, they can slowly starve to death > because they are not getting the correct nutrients. I suspect this to be > the case of the _Otocinculus_ spp. That seem to have a relatively short > life span in aquaria environments. > > When algae is growing in an undesired area, such as the front panel of > glass, there are a number of methods that can be used to remove it. If > one has dedicated algae eaters in the tank, they could wait for them to > take care of it, or it can be simply wiped off with your hand, a sponge > dedicated to aquarium use, one of the many algae scraping tools > available, etc. during normal tank maintenance. If it appears on plant > leaves, it can be wiped off with your fingers, or, with older leaves, > removed from that tank, leaf and all. > > You can help control algal growth by ensuring you are providing proper > lighting for your tank, both lumens provided and the length of time the > tank is lighted, proper maintenance of your tank, ensuring you are not > overfeeding the tank, and ensuring you are not providing too many > nutrients for other plants in your tank with fertilizers or introducing > them via your water supply. > > All in all, you will get algae. It is part of the natural process. It is > up to you to determine how much you can live with, but you will never > live without algae. > > \Steve// > > > —–Original Message—– > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of > > Amber Berglund > > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 2:40 PM > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille > > > > From what I’ve read on algae build up (as long as it’s the good algae > > build up which is greenish/brown) any amount of it is good, as it does > > the same thing your live plants would do when they clean the water by > > removing fish waste and all that. My betta tank has no live plants in > it > > but it does tend to get a build up of algae on my fake plants, which > so > > far I have left alone, I figure it’s not harmful to the fish and helps > > keep the tank cleaner. > > Now my big 125 gallon tank has a lot more algae build up, but I think > > it’s because it’s near the living room window and perhaps some of the > > afternoon light helps the build up? It’s something recent with the > > winter weather, so I’m thinking the increase in sunlight is what’s > > boosting my algae. I definitely need to get an algae cleaner in there. > > All the back glass is green, the front glass also builds up algae, and > > every decoration and even the slow growing plants have algae on them, > > LOL. There’s literally algae everywhere in that tank. Perhaps it’s > > because I used potting soil under the gravel for the plants? Maybe > it’s > > a better environment for algae to grow in. > > > > Amber > > > > Menagerie_Manager wrote: > > > > > > Friday Night Check in (Day 16 reduced salt - Day 32 total) > > > > > > - 5G PWC late morning (5tsp salt, .5ml Prime) > > > - Tank readings 11:30PM: pH: 7.4; Ammonia: almost .25ppm; Nitrite: > > > almost .25ppm; Nitrate: 10ppm (will do PWC in the morning) > > > > > > How much algae is ok for an aquarium tank? Should I be leaving some > > > when I clean? > > > > > > I’ll be picking up the Acriflavin tomorrow. I wanted to let the > > > activated carbon run for a while before doing another treatment. > > > > > > My Task Scheduler just told me “GO TO BED” > > > DebR and the Three Goldfish > > > (CB, Lucille, and Raven) > > > > > > —– Original Message —– > > > From: “Menagerie_Manager” > > > > > > To: > > > > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 12:55 AM > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille > > > > > > Thursday Night Check in (Day 15 reduced salt - 31 total)(PraziPro > > > treatment > > > ended yesterday) > > > > > > Tuesday: > > > - pH: 7.4; Ammonia: .25ppm; Nitrite: just over 0ppm; Nitrate: 10ppm > > > - PWC (5tsp salt, .5ml Prime) > > > > > > Wednesday: > > > - pH: 7.4; Ammonia: .25ppm; Nitrite: .25ppm; Nitrate: just over > 10ppm > > > - PWC (5tsp salt, .5ml Prime) > > > > > > Thursday (Today): > > > - pH: 7.4; Ammonia: just under .25ppm; Nitrite: .25ppm; Nitrate: > just > > > under 20ppm > > > > > > I’ll be doing a PWC first thing in the morning, then readings later > at > > > night. > > > > > > The “glitter” is shiny iridescent pearl color - the same as most of > > > Lucille’s body. She does have some pale Cheetos-colored areas > starting to > > > show on her body and gills, and spreading out from the deep orange > spot on > > > her head. The red on her tail seems to be taming down to an orange, > also. > > > It’s all in the normal color range for a goldfish. Any “flashing” > that > > > I’ve > > > seen seems to be in the process of playing in the filter current - > not so > > > much flashing as the fact that the current pushes them towards the > plastic > > > bridge and they glance off of it sometimes. > > > > > > I’m thinking, just for peace of mind, of going ahead with the > > > Acriflavin treatment. It would put the kibosh on any remaining > fungus, and > > > from what I’m reading online, it would also take care of any velvet > if > > > it’s > > > present. The PraziPro treatment is done and I’m in the process of > removing > > > it through PWCs and carbon filtering. > > > > > > I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. Yes, the in-between #s are > > > estimates based on color gradient. I’m think there must be > chloramines, > > > also. Maybe someday I’ll get a response from the water department. > My bill > > > comes from the Township, but the water comes from Detroit and, > rather than > > > talk to some secretary, I sent an email to the water processing > > > department. > > > Hopefully, now that the holidays are over, I will get a reply, but > where > > > else would ammonia come from 24 hours after getting a zero? > > > > > > Will any dechlor really be alright once the tank get cycled? I > thought > > > Ray had said I would need to stick with the Prime if the tap water > has > > > chloramines. > > > > > > DebR and the Three Goldfish > > > (CB, Lucille, and Raven) > > > > > > —– Original Message —– > > > From: “Lenny V. aka GoldLenny” > > > > > > To: > > > > Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 10:12 AM > > > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille > > > > > > The breeding stars or breeding tubercles are little white bumps on > the > > > gill > > > covers and on the leading edges of the pectoral fins. Bumps anywhere > else > > > on the fish need to be diagnosed. > > > > > > The glitter look… what color is it?… could just be the natural > > > reflection of a healthy fish or worse case, it could be the start of > > > another > > > sickness called Velvet - Description - Powder-like white, grey or > gold > > > dusting on surface of fish (finer than ich, more similar to the > > > consistency > > > of talc) from Pandora’s Fish Disease page - > > > http://preview.tinyurl.com/2m83ee > > > > and more reading here > > > http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/othprotist.shtml > > > > > > and here > > > http://www.fishvet.com/Oodinium.pdf > > > > and this long case history with lots of pics.. > > > http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/BugsyCostia0503.html > > > > > > (while Dataguru is very well read and knowledgeable, she and some of > the > > > fellow goldfish keepers at thegab.org have lots of fish health > problems > > > because they insist on promoting 10G per goldfish in her GAB > forums… so > > > those forums are a very good place to read and learn about goldfish > from > > > others mistakes… and what not to do.) > > > > > > Normally, the fish would appear sick with clamped fins, > > > flashing/scratching > > > on surfaces in the tank, etc. The salt treatment you did > would/should have > > > also taken care of any Ich or Velvet as well so I’m leaning against > it > > > being > > > Velvet. Have you been looking at pictures of healthy goldfish to see > > > if you > > > see this same “look”? With all the problems that you’ve had, for a > while, > > > you will be predisposed to think normal things might be a problem. > It’s a > > > natural reaction. > > > > > > Now… for your test results… > > > Which brand kit do you have? You are showing levels of ammonia and > nitrite > > > in the 0.1 ppm range which is not a typical level reported by most > > > test kits > > > that I’ve used… or are you kind of guessing them numbers based on > the > > > color range between 0.0ppm and 0.25ppm? I also want to make sure > that your > > > test kit actually tests that low and that you didn’t misplace the > decimal > > > point. Normally, we don’t worry about levels below 0.25 in a tank > that is > > > still cycling…. although yours should be darn close to being > completed. > > > > > > Since you are showing ammonia in your 48 hour tap water baseline > tests, it > > > likely means that you do have chloramine treated tap water. Your > Prime > > > will > > > handle that with no problems and once your tank’s nitrogen cycle is > fully > > > established, any dechlor will be OK. > > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com > > > > (Links to any articles referenced in above reply are listed on the > right > > > side, alphabetically under Labels and also under Archives by Year, > Month) > > > > > > —–Original Message—– > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > > > ] On > > > Behalf Of Menagerie_Manager > > > Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 1:15 AM > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille > > > > > > Monday Night Check in (Day 12 reduced salt - 28 total) (3 days > PraziPro) > > > > > > - Baseline 48 Hours: pH: 7.6; Ammonia: slightly over .25ppm; > Nitrite: > > > 0ppm; Nitrate: 0ppm This was done on straight tap water - no Prime. > I’ll > > > have to do another with the Prime and see what the difference is. > I’m > > > waiting on a call back from the water company for the chloramine > info. > > > - Tank: pH: 7.4; Ammonia: .10 to .15ppm; Nitrite: .10ppm; Nitrate: > > > 10ppm > > > - Lucille is getting more red, this time along the lower edge of the > tail. > > > It really does look blood red, not like the deep orange on her head. > I’ve > > > never seen a goldfish turn this color red. But she seems to be > acting > > > normal. She(probably he) does seem a bit plump, though - not dropsy, > scale > > > spreading plump, but still rather round - fat, maybe? > > > - The reason I said probably he is that I think I’m starting to see > that > > > what-do-you-call-it, starring? It looks like someone sprinkled fairy > dust > > > along her (sorry) back. It doesn’t look like white specs of salt. It > looks > > > more like glitter. > > > > > > —– Original Message —– > > > From: “Menagerie_Manager” > > > > > > > > > To: > > > > > > > > > Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 1:31 AM > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille (was: Newbie > with a > > > fungus problem?) > > > > > > > Sunday Night Check in (Day 11 of reduced salt - 27 total) > > > > > > > > - I haven’t seen a fish resting on the bottom of the tank ALL > DAY!!! > > > > 
> > > > - Baseline 24 hours: pH: 7.6; Ammonia: almost .25ppm; Nitrite: > 0ppm; > > > > Nitrate: 0ppm > > > > - Tank (wasn’t able to do a PWC yet- I’m off to do that as soon as > I > > > > send this message): pH: 7.4; Ammonia: .25ppm; Nitrite: .10 to > .15ppm; > > > > Nitrate: slightly over 10ppm > > > > - 5G PWC (as soon as I sign off) (including 5tsp salt, 1.25ml > > > > PraziPro, and .5ml Prime) > > > > > > > > Does ammonium show up on the ammonia test or if it were all > converted, > > > > would the test read zero? > > > > > > > > Is there anything besides PWCs or adding plants that will help > remove > > > > the nitrates once the tank is completely cycled? > > > > > > > > Oh criminy, the cat just knocked over the Christmas tree. I’m off > to > > > > pick it up and do the PWC. > > > > > > > > DebR and the Three Goldfish > > > > (CB, Lucille, and Raven) > > > > > > > > > > > > —– Original Message —– > > > > From: “Raymond Wetzel” > > > > > > > > > > > To: > > > > > > > > > Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 8:00 AM > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: CB, Raven and Lucille (was: Newbie with > a > > > > fungus > > > > problem?) > > > > > > > > > > > > Good move on changing the subject line — and being ABLE to change > it. > > > > Nice to see that the fungus issue is behind you; that’s at least > one > > > > step in the right direction in getting these fish back to good > health. > > > > CB’s increased activity is even more encouraging than before. > > > > > > > > Keeping an eye on the ammonia level, I would do an additional PWC > (but > > > > a somewhat smaller one) at this time, and replace the removed > > > > PraziPro, and add Prime with it. While you don’t want the ammonia > > > > (ammonium) to increase much more, neither do you want to > physically > > > > remove too much ammonium yet even though ideally you would strive > for > > > > a zero (0) ammonia level in a fully cycled tank. I’m not fully > > > > convinced that your tank is completely cycled yet. You don’t want > to > > > > starve out your nitrifying bacteria — but happily, your midnight > > > > readings indicate your nitrobacters and nitrospinas (nitrite- > > > > converting bacteria) are WELL populated as witness the 0 reading > of > > > > this compound, having been completely converted to nitrate, but > for > > > > some reason the nitrosomonas and nitrospiras (ammonia-converting > > > > bacteria) seem a bit slow and their populations may need building > up > > > > (and would need food/ammonium with it). > > > > > > > > The baseline readings certainly make it appear as though your tap > > > > water does not contain chloramine, yet an earlier baseline reading > of > > > > your tap water appeared to be a contradictory enigma when in went > from > > > > 0.0 to 0.25 the next day. To be assured on this, I’d suggest you > still > > > > contact your water company tomorrow, as was planned. > > > > > > > > You might give PetSmart a call on whether they do water testing, > > > > before going there, but I tend to doubt that they do (hope I’m > wrong). > > > > If need be, give the LFS a shot at it while watching for his > proper > > > > procedures. As long as he makes these tests properly and gives you > the > > > > actual results (check those readings along with him, if he > allows), > > > > you don’t need to take any further advise from him regarding these > > > > readings. > > > > > > > > I would maintain the salt at its present level for the time being. > > > > This amount should not interfere with any of the aquarium’s life > > > > functions, unless you have plants; I’d wait until you’re > completely > > > > out of the woods with health concerns, and continue watching any > > > > further red streaking of any fins. With your suspicion of Raven’s > and > > > > CB’s tails being nipped by Lucille now being confirmed, this may > be > > > > the direct cause of the redness in CB’s tail and this salt > addition > > > > will help prevent any fungusing of the damaged tissue. As I first > > > > started reading this account of CB having a shortened and raggedy > > > > caudal fin, the disease of fin-rot went through my mind up until I > > > > read your sighting of Lucille picking on the other two fish. > > > > Hiding places and plant cover do seem in order, but this behavior > only > > > > increases the need for a larger tank sooner. As this may be pre- > > > > spawning behavior on the part of Lucille, you may have to change > her > > > > (his? name to Louis! (LOL) Ray > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > — In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > > , “Menagerie_Manager” > > > > wrote: > > > >> > > > >> > > > > Saturday Night Check in (Day 10 of reduced salt - 26 total): > > > >> > > > >> - Baseline #1 on straight tap water: pH: 7.6; Ammonia: 0ppm; > > > > Nitrite: > > > >> 0ppm; Nitrate: 0ppm > > > >> - Tank (midnight): pH: 7.4; Ammonia: almost .25ppm; Nitrite: > > > > almost 0ppm; > > > >> Nitrate: slightly over 10ppm > > > >> - CB has been very active today - almost back to normal. > > > >> > > > >> I figured since the fungus is a thing of the past I should > > > > probably > > > >> change the subject line. > > > >> > > > >> Noting the Ammonia level, since I gave the PraziPro yesterday > > > > at 5pm, > > > >> should I do a PWC and treat the replacement water with PraziPro > or > > > > should I > > > >> just add more Prime to control the ammonia? > > > >> > > > >> I’m looking for someplace to take a water sample from the > > > > aquarium and > > > >> have it tested so I can tell if my kit is giving me accurate > > > > results. Will > > > >> PetSmart do that kind of thing? I only know of one LFS and as I > > > > said before > > > >> it’s kind of a dirty little place. I might buy sealed containers > > > > of fish > > > >> products, but I wouldn’t buy any fish there and I’m not so sure > I’d > > > > trust > > > >> their advice. > > > >> > > > >> Also, since everyone agrees that Lucille probably doesn’t have > > > >> Septicemia, should I stop replacing salt with any PWCs? I really > > > > don’t > > > >> think it’s a color change. It looks much more like blood to me. > > > >> > > > >> Someone mentioned about CB’s tail is so short. It was longer > > > > in spots, > > > >> but raggedy, and the raggedy bits finally fell off, but the tail > > > > seems to be > > > >> growing back some, now. Now that the fish are acting healthier, I > > > > do notice > > > >> Lucille nipping at CB’s tail sometimes. I had originally > suspected > > > > that > > > >> both CB’s and Raven’s tails had been nibbled on. In a 10 gallon > > > > tank, where > > > >> could they have escaped to? Hopefully, I can keep Lucille > > > > entertained > > > >> enough and give CB places to hide. > > > >> > > > >> DebR and the Three Goldfish > > > >> (CB, Lucille, and Raven) > > > > > > > > >
Category: Philippines Internet Koi Society
